The first time I stayed at this lodge was in 2003, in the Weaver Cottage at the top of the hill. By this time I had been trekking gorillas in their various habitats for over ten years and was surprised to find a lodge with all the ambiance and tranquility of the primate forest. Relaxing for the first time on Weaver’s wide veranda which faces Bwindi Impenetrable forest, I breathed a heavy sigh of relief.
I heard chimpanzee pan hoots at dusk, bidding each other goodnight like tree-dwelling Waltons, and on another occasion two silverbacks chest beating well into the night, neither prepared to back down about something, probably a female. All around were other primates, including the rare L’hoest monkey… Finally I had found somewhere I could contemplate the plight of the great apes and how best to ensure their survival.
Lately Gorilla Forest Camp (GFC) has gained notoriety because uniquely gorillas are wandering across the lodge grounds. As a conservationist I am concerned about the outcome such close proximity to humans may have for our hairy mountain cousins. Nevertheless, there’s not much we can do to deter their ranging patterns, and meeting them on your own turf, to which they’ve come on their own volition, is quite a thrilling experience.
Despite this, the most enjoyable feature of staying at Gorilla Forest Camp with its staff, which is well trained, extremely courteous and flexible towards the needs of their visitors – a rare distinction among Uganda’s high-end lodges. I always receive a warm reception, especially from manager Ian Sendagala, he made my Uganda safari memorable and enjoyable. And if I was to force to pick just one, Gorilla Forest Camp would have to be my favorite lodge in Uganda.
Room Tip: Weaver Cottage is the best, as it sits high above the lodge on the slopes of the Bufumbira Mountains…
There is not really anything can fault with Gorilla Forest Camp. Like all of Sanctuary’s camps and lodges, the standards are excellent. The staff is attentive, friendly and helpful. Since we were the only guests, Jackson – acting manager – joined us for our Batwa experience and hospital visit, which was good fun. The rooms are spacious and very nicely decorated. A tiny bit damp, but we have enough experiences of the rainy season in East Africa to know that you simply can’t get away from that.
They do check on the sheets daily to see if anything needs to be changed to minimize the dampness. Hot water bottles at night not only helps keep the sheets warm and dry but is a good example of the many small touches that make a stay here so memorable. The food was excellent as well – always a three-course meal with two choices for starters, mains and desserts. The quiche in particular was incredible, but we were also impressed with the freshness of all the salads.
Not to mention the chocolate mousse… Sitting by the campfire at night or relaxing in the bath, all the while listening to the sounds of the forest – we simply did not want to leave! The showers were fantastic as well, the water heated by firewood. Sanctuary has recently undertaken a lot of maintenance work at GFC, so the curtains, bed spreads and much else is brand new. Jackson has also done a fantastic job getting the kitchen on track, and we enjoyed huge quantities of fresh juice between meals.
Sanctuary also take a huge social responsibility, and have contributed some USD2 million to the Batwa Community Hospital, either directly or through guest donations. The hospital is well worth a visit! Although generally suspicious of organized ‘cultural experiences’, the Batwa experience (not run directly by Sanctuary, so it is an extra cost) was actually wonderful.
It is well worth knowing that the things you will see are not there primarily for tourists, but is the way in which Batwa elders, who once lived in the Bwindi forest, teach the Batwa culture to their children and grandchildren who have not experienced living in the forest themselves. What made the experience great was the obvious enjoyment of the Batwa – whether they were laughing at us, with us or at them I don’t know, but something sure was funny! All in all a thoroughly enjoyable stay – highly recommended! You can book such amazing Batwa Experience experience through The Keller Man Foundation, they offer the best gorilla tours and batwa experience in National Park, Email: info@kellermannfoundation.org, website: www.kellermannfoundation.org
